T6 First steps

I assume you all have your tools and "practice" skis. Some of you more motivated students have already tried to get rust off edges and have sent me all your problems.

Let me confess something to you.

I never try to get rust off skis. Notice I did not use the MY SKIS , that is because I have a rag in my ski bag and at the end of every ski day I wipe my skis. You should do the same. You must learn to take rust off!

My goal in asking you to take rust off was twofold.
1.To teach you to take care of your skis. They will provide you with much pleasure show your appreciation by cleaning them

2. To teach you that it is very difficult to take rust off edges without damaging the plastic base. (I will show you how to clean up your mistakes in several sessions)!


The solution to the rust edges problem is simple, but before I tell you the solution let me prepare you for the many request you will get. "friends" will hear that you know how to tune skis and they will bring their rusty skis in for tune up. DO NOT DO their skis!

I ask them to go to a ski shop where I have established a set rate for FLAT FILING. That is two or three passes on the stone or belt to get rust off and establish a perfect alignment of the ski edges and the ski base.

Typically this costs 7 euros ( $10 US). This is done just once!
Now you can do your work with a "clean, true base".

That is why you must learn to use the True Bar. It is the essential tool that all serious tuners have. The true bar is the equivalent to the builder's laser or level ( that tool with a bubble in center).
If you have read my previous classes you know how to use this bar.

Any work you do with skis starts with the true bar. Never assume that a ski is "true", even is it is a new ski! When you go to ski shop, make sure you have your true bar with you and make sure you tell the technician why you want just a flat base. Tell him/her that you will check work at end with true bar! He/she will not be insulted, the opposite you will get respect because know what you want.

I can not stress how important this first step is. This step is like building the foundation of a house. If the foundation is not correct, the rest will suffer.

Skiers think that tuning is long, complicated and requires specialized tools.
The first step can be long, but once ski is "true" the rest can be done in 15 minutes. Typically I prepare 5 pairs of skis in 20-30 minutes because my skis are always "true".

Do not go to ski shop and use the mechanical ski tuners since I want you to learn how to use coarse sandpaper, how to clean out grooves created by this coarse paper and then I will teach you how to "structure" the base depending on the snow conditions.

Remember I listed on previous classes a sanding block and I mentioned the the car body work sanding block was the very best. Now you will find out why!
This block has two grooves or flaps ( on each end) to tuck paper and hold it to the block. You can now take your block,,,, here is the secret to taking rust off without scratching the base! Place block in your palm, curl fingers under block ( where sandpaper is) and allow just enough area for the ski edges. The rest of block is past the ski edges. The fingers act as a guide to the block!

Read the above sentence again because this technique will be used for filing and ding work later. Use your fingers as guides!This position of the fingers, is criticall for most tuning procedures. You must learn to allow fingers to guide tool!

You will notice no doubt that the sandpaper gets full of rust after one pass. You must move block around so that you have new sandpaper surface for each new pass.

Do not get frustrated. You will only do this once, in order to learn to "feel" coarse paper cutting into the edges. Also you can refuse to do any other skis with rust by saying that you already did this by hand ONCE and it took XYZ minutes!! Never again!

As always wipe edges after every pass with paper towels. Used paper is thrown away. Never use any other type of material!

Normally I walk around class and observed students doing work and pace my class according to class progress. Since you are all alone in your corner of the world I must wait for you to tell me how this is going on. Take your time. Take pictures and send them for me to see.

The principle is the same in all steps of the tuning procedure. First use coarse cuts ( softly) then go to less coarse. Finish ski edges at base with a 200 grit paper.


I hope I was clear and you understand how to do this. If not contact me via PM!


For the "advanced" students who did this already, please be patient since next week we will do the base sanding and base "structuring".


Comments to class.

Several students have contacted me and even sent some pictures of their work. Others have not. I will assume you are away or no longer interested in the class thus I will determine my class pace based on the feedback for the first group!

Several students asked me to explain how to use tools in a more precise manner. I will try to do so. If I fail please tell me. Also remember that at end of course for the successful students that enrolled in class and have done all homework, I will send a DVD of all these techniques!

Also, I test new skis and the new 2007 skis will be out soon to test, therefore I might be "out" for some time. If I do not answer your emails please be patient! I have not abandoned you!


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