Messages posted by : Juddernaut
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As promised report from three days in Italy. Bear in mind when reading this that we went in mid December during low season. Your experience will vary if you are there at a busy time such as a weekend in February and March. However, I suspect the crowds etc will be far better than 3V France etc.
We drove to Champoluc from Geneva in about two hours twenty. Straight through Mont Blanc tunnel no problem. Raining on Chamonix side but snowing prolifically in Courmayeur. Drove past Aosta, which is a dump. Our GPS then took us the scenic route through the Col de Joux area. Stunning scenery with picturesque Val D'Aosta hamlets of chalets constructed in the traditional grey stone and timber. Well worth the detour. Road were cleared by an army of snow ploughs so we had no problems despite the heavy snow. We stayed at Le Rocher which is a great looking hotel in a lovely area about a twenty minute walk up from Champoluc. I walked back in my ski boots but you can call them and they will pick you up. Room, facilities (sauna, spa) and breakfast very good with beltingly good croissants. Hotel Le Rocher 
The small pretty village of Champoluc has many restaurants and a very small supermarket. You ain't going to get a Chicken Tikka there, but what you will get is outstanding food such as pizza, veal, pasta, risotto, Italian desserts at ridiculously cheap prices for a top class ski area. Three of us ate one night at Lo Bistrot in the nice downstairs area with old wooden beams. We had a main each (minestrone with salad, brilliant ham and funghi pizza, risotto), bread, mineral water, a demi of local red, a soft drink, two desserts and a couple of local genepi aperitifs and it came to 50EU. This sort of result repeated at Le Sapin. Outstanding service and cleanliness in all places. Coffee simply brilliant after the muck we have been served in Switzerland and France and at less than half the price (1.50EU for a cappuccino). On piste food is not as good but acceptable and again relatively cheap. English widely spoken in Champoluc and Courmayeur so no communication problemos. Everything well organised and clean with absolutely no crowds at any stage. A few people on Sunday but on Monday I shared a whole mountain with half a dozen people. I have never skied in better conditions. Tons of fresh snow and the pistes were immaculately prepared. Think the very best of the Dolomites and that is what we got. Lots of off piste accessible due to the great snow cover. The slopes in the Champoluc area are mostly wide, perfectly groomed boulevards\race tracks, perfect for immediate blasting. They haven't skimped on the safety staff either, with lots of nets and padding even though the chances of them coming into play would be remote. No steep, kamikaze black stuff experienced. I found the pistes well-marked and graded. The piste map was enough for me to find my way around without problem. We skied Frachey first day, about a kilometre north of Champoluc. View from Frachey 
Frachey slopes 
Frachey - Scenery 
No queues, even though it was a Sunday so straight to the ticket office and sorted in a couple of minutes. From Frachey you get the funicular up which runs every five minutes or so. We skied around there for a while and later went up to Col Bettaforca 2727m and blasted down there a heap of times using a variety of routes. View from Col Bettaforca toward Gressoney 
Visibility iffy up there but once you hit the tree line it was clear. Great views, great pistes, great skiing. You could ski back down to the car park but it looked a bit gnarly so I downloaded. Nice touch is that there is a magic carpet to take you the hundred metres to the funicular station even though it is very, very walkable. Monday was a bluebird morning and I took the Crest gondola up from Champoluc, then another gondola, then a chair to get to Sarezza. View from Crest Gondola 
From there it is an absolutely brilliant run down to Champoluc through stunning scenery, pretty little hamlets and chalets. There are bars and refuges every kilometre or so. Not sure how long the run down is but I guess it must be at least 5 kilometres. Sarezza Slopes 
Val D'Aosta style chalet - Sarezza 
I would rate the lift infrastructure as very good. The Crest gondala is a bit old but does the job. I didn't see a drag lift and the chairs were pretty fast and had the escalator rolling carpets to make loading a breeze. No wind shields though but there was no wind and temperatures were mild. Lift tickets are crazy cheap. I paid 23EU on the Monday for a half day pass which allowed me to ski from 8.45am to 1:00pm. All up it was brilliant and I will try to get back and do the whole area properly. Great value skiing with great facilities, scenery, locals, and food. |
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We are heading off to Davos tomorrow. Will let you know what we find.
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No crowds either. Sunday had a few people but never had to wait for anything anywhere. Locals are great. Crazy quiet, worlds best kept ski secret
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I had to come home. Bonkers brilliant! Things can only get worse between now and when you arrive because this morning was the best skiing I have ever had. Yesterday was tremendous but this morning was even better. I have never seen better snow, the views were amazing and the pistes were like billiard tables of felt. The reds are just autobahn blast frenzies. The lift infrastructure is well organized and in the main very fast and modern. Some of the gondolas a bit old but they do the job and I didn't see a drag lift. My ticket for this morning cost 23eu, valid 08:45 to 1:00pm. Incredible value.
The villages are simply glorious, the food and coffee is superb and amazing value. Full report to follow in another thread. |
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You want the bad news Tony? |
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We are off to Champoluc for a sneaky weekend this weekend (15, 16 December). Staying at Le Rocher. Anybody know it and/or have any tips for the area?
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Alpe di Suisi/Seiser Alm would be a nice choice for beginner snowboarders. Good value skiing and accommodation. Great food. Great coffee. Stunning scenery.
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