Okay I know this is a big taboo in the skiing world and anyone who tries it is immediately shunned but I've started doing it anyways because I really like to understand how things work and I figure I'll just take it really slow and if I get uncomfortable I'll stop.
So the point I'm at, is that I spent 3 hours last night drilling the holes in my new 2005 Salomon Scream Ltd Skis ($96 on eBay) for my 2005 Salomon S710 Axe bindings ($20.50 on eBay). I was extremely careful and spent the vast majority of that 3 hours period quadruple checking everything. The result is that my holes are the right depth (9mm) and exactly in the right spots...my digital caliper says they're all less than 1/4 millimeter off.
My next move (tonight) will be to lightly bevel the holes so I get rid of the plastic lip which I'm comfortable with. After that though I have a couple questions:
1 - I downloaded the 06/07 official Salomon shop guide for binding mounting and they recommend tapping the holes. Is this necessary? I have a tap and die set but I'm not sure if I have something that course. My skis appears to have about 4mm of harder plastic as a top layer and then below that is a fairly soft foam core.
2 - After the holes are beveled and maybe tapped, the next step is screwing in the bolts in which lies my main question. I'm going to use some Elmers white glue to seal the holes but I don't know how tight to screw the screws. Obviously stripping a hole would be a very bad thing but so would making them too loose. Can anyone attempt to describe how easy it is to strip these holes? Do I want to crank the screws pretty tight...ie. almost as tight as I can? or just get them snug/tight? I have a torque wrench if anyone has the correct spec.
Thanks a lot for your comments!
Dan
Mounting My Own Bindings?
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Started by Dandydan in Ski Hardware 01-Feb-2007 - 2 Replies
Dandydan posted Feb-2007
Boardnow
reply to 'Mounting My Own Bindings?' posted Feb-2007
Hi Dan
you have saved yourself a bunch of money on your kit. Why not invest a little take your skis and bindings to your local ski tech and ask him tio fit them. It won't cost a lot but it will be done correctly.
If your binding comes off your ski chances are you will shatter not just break your leg and that will be the end of your skiing for a VERY LONG TIME.
:twisted:
Hope all goes well
you have saved yourself a bunch of money on your kit. Why not invest a little take your skis and bindings to your local ski tech and ask him tio fit them. It won't cost a lot but it will be done correctly.
If your binding comes off your ski chances are you will shatter not just break your leg and that will be the end of your skiing for a VERY LONG TIME.
:twisted:
Hope all goes well
www
A busy day at kimberley Alpine Resort. Canadas Jewel in the Crown.
Pavelski
reply to 'Mounting My Own Bindings?' posted Feb-2007
Dandy,
It is clear that you are comfortable with tools and are asking the right questions. However some "background information" is essential. I would like to point out that I do not recommend that all skiers mount their bindings since it is a question of safety. If you are at ease with tools, know something about the function of bindings and understand the safety issue, you could install your units. As more and more companies have rails or pre-marked screw holes on plates it is becoming easier to do so!
The positioning of the bindings is critical to correct ski performance. Never assume that the reference marks on boots andf skis are correct. Always measure your own marks!
Now to answer your specific questions.
1. Tapping the drilled holes.
You tap holes because some skis have a "layered" core with varied metals and if you have not drilled correctly or do not screw in correctly you will cause "delamination" of the ski. I have a special tool for tapping and I would not recommend using a generic tapping tool since as you know screws have a angle of attack and a screw type. If you do not have common screw type tap and common angle of screw you may damage ski!
There is a solution to your problem. It is in the care you take to screw in screws. Of course use glue to seal and lubricate screwing. As you screw in the screws do it in stages. Two turns, stop, back off half turn and stop. Another three turns and back off! This action will allow core material to form to screw and allow screw threads to "groove" into the material! Never but never use drill!
Alway do inserts in X pattern like you do on a car engine head!
Hand tighten and check work after three weeks of skiing! Most new ski technicians over-tighten screws.
Use Posidrive screwdriver. Phillips might seem the same until you strip screw head at last tight turn! Snug tigh is your route.
Once you have physically installed units, you must;
1. Check DIN level ( major safety issue)
2.Front boot clearance ( major safety issue)
3. Rear tension level ( major safety issue)
4, Rear DIN level
Send me via PM information about level of skiing, age and body type and I will send you correct procedures.
Again I stress that these are safety issues which if not done correctly might cause you safety problems. It is your call!
If these are old bindings may I suggest you lubricate them also with lithium white grease around the articulation points.
Hope this helps you.
PS.
Turn ski over after drilling to get drilled matter out of core holes. Just tap skis three times while they are up-sidedown!
It is clear that you are comfortable with tools and are asking the right questions. However some "background information" is essential. I would like to point out that I do not recommend that all skiers mount their bindings since it is a question of safety. If you are at ease with tools, know something about the function of bindings and understand the safety issue, you could install your units. As more and more companies have rails or pre-marked screw holes on plates it is becoming easier to do so!
The positioning of the bindings is critical to correct ski performance. Never assume that the reference marks on boots andf skis are correct. Always measure your own marks!
Now to answer your specific questions.
1. Tapping the drilled holes.
You tap holes because some skis have a "layered" core with varied metals and if you have not drilled correctly or do not screw in correctly you will cause "delamination" of the ski. I have a special tool for tapping and I would not recommend using a generic tapping tool since as you know screws have a angle of attack and a screw type. If you do not have common screw type tap and common angle of screw you may damage ski!
There is a solution to your problem. It is in the care you take to screw in screws. Of course use glue to seal and lubricate screwing. As you screw in the screws do it in stages. Two turns, stop, back off half turn and stop. Another three turns and back off! This action will allow core material to form to screw and allow screw threads to "groove" into the material! Never but never use drill!
Alway do inserts in X pattern like you do on a car engine head!
Hand tighten and check work after three weeks of skiing! Most new ski technicians over-tighten screws.
Use Posidrive screwdriver. Phillips might seem the same until you strip screw head at last tight turn! Snug tigh is your route.
Once you have physically installed units, you must;
1. Check DIN level ( major safety issue)
2.Front boot clearance ( major safety issue)
3. Rear tension level ( major safety issue)
4, Rear DIN level
Send me via PM information about level of skiing, age and body type and I will send you correct procedures.
Again I stress that these are safety issues which if not done correctly might cause you safety problems. It is your call!
If these are old bindings may I suggest you lubricate them also with lithium white grease around the articulation points.
Hope this helps you.
PS.
Turn ski over after drilling to get drilled matter out of core holes. Just tap skis three times while they are up-sidedown!
Topic last updated on 03-February-2007 at 14:40