T7 Cleaning and sanding ( structuring) ski bases.

Before we continue our class, I need to have some feedback from the class students on their progress.

1. Do you have vices set up?

2. Do you have basic tools ready?

3. Do you have true bar and sanding block?

4. Is iron plugged and ready?

Several students have commented on time taken for tune up and they were wondering if their time was average.

There are actually two levels in ski tune up.

The first , which is more time demanding is actually just getting a ski to "correct specifications"! That is getting the base perfectly level or aligned to ski edges, cleaning base and edges and finally taking out all imperfections due to rocks, branches, steel chair bars, etc...

If you have taken care of your skis, this first part should not be more than 30 minutes. If on the other hand you have rust on edges, never cleaned base, never sanded base, you may have to take more time.

Typically I do all first phase tune up in August, when I have lots of time since I have several skis to do!
I examine all skis and note all work to be done. The more extreme ski work ( convex or concave bases, serious dings etc..) I will do in ski tuning machines! Just the base setting!!!!!!

As far as phase 2 tune up work, it takes me 5 minutes per ski!
This involves;
1. Visual inspections of skis ( top skin, edges, ski base)
2. With ceramic bar or diamond stick, take out all dings and burrs
dings= steel edges that are broken inward causing dip into edges.
burr= steel edges with rough edges due to dragging edges over rocks.

Typically dings are caused when you set a hard edge on rocks. Please note this,,,,,,, since it is very important that you understand that the more pronounced your vertical tune, ie 3 degrees, the more "fragile" is that leading edge. A 3 degree vertical set edges gives you great very sharp cut but it means that you will have more dings and burrs.

Just draw a graph with ( abscissa, vertical line and ordinate, horizontal line )at 90 degree angle. Now draw over this figure a vertical line that is 87 degrees inward. Note how the point where two lines meet is more pronounced. That is what happens to your ski edges!

For you that avoided geometry all your educational life, ask friend to show you what an abscissa and ordinate look like!

The more radical you make ski edges, the more "fragile" the ski edges will be.

There is not one set rule on what is the correct vertical angle. Let me provide some benchmarks.

If you are skiing in soft well packed runs a 1 or 2 degree is more than acceptable.
My powder skis are at 1 degree since I rarely set an edges in powder.

On hard icy ski conditions you must go from 2-3 degrees vertical.

If you take my "advanced" tuning course in 2007 you will learn to do "multiple edge sets"! And you thought ski tuning was simple!!!!!!!!

For 90% of skiers a 2 degree vertical edges is perfect. If you ever put a 3 degree edge for a skier that never had skis tuned, he/she will have problems since ski is too sharp!!!!! They will fall on first turn!!!!!

My trick ( which I practiced on my wife) is to slowly tune skis more radical very slowly over several months. Now my wife insists in having her skis tuned "like the last time" ie racing 3 degrees! Please do not tell her that!!!!



3. I mark areas on edges that need work and with file I give 2-3 passes in that area only. Then I will do one final file pass to get uniform set steel edges.

4, Using 200 ceramic stick , I will pass steel edges once.

5. Using 400 ceramic stick, I will pass steel edges.

6. Using 200+ alu-sand paper I will GENTALLY pass from tip to tail!

Voila!!!! All set for next days skiing. 5 minutes!

Remember rule of thumb! warmer the weather for next skiing day the more structured the base. So it is possible that you might have to pass base with 150 grit paper once or twice. You will learn this from experience.

To clean base you may use a nylon brush. I have a roto ( a brush on shaft driven by drill) just because I have 10 pairs to do often!

Again rough brush for warm weather ( -3 to +10) and finner as it get colder!

When I get to setting wax and preparing wax for skiing I will also show you how to structure the wax.
Remember the original reason for our tune is to get protection and great glide ALL DAY! This is where we part ways with the racing tuners.
They have a saying, " thick sticks and thin wins"

They are interested in ONE run thus they will scrap off most if not all surface wax. It is the wax IN the base that does all lubrication IN A RACE!

You must NOT take out all surface wax. I will show you how this is done in later classes! You must first learn how to apply wax correctly and then structure this wax once it has cooled!

Are we ready to continue???? Dino, Darko, Graviteski, Forny, and missing "others"

I will wait for your feedback via PM!