T5 Using Tools Effectively January 8

Hopefully the hectic days are over. You have all survived the Christmas rush, the social visits and the ski holidays.

Most of you have sent me messages that you still are alive and interested in the course so on we go!

While you were away skiing in the great powder, I have "prepared" the classes with some "spicy" items which you will have to do soon!

A small review is needed due to the long time since last class.

Remember that we are tuning for recreational skiing. Thus we want to have great glide and protection of our bases.

You must learn to observe the results of your actions, for example I am going to ask you to heat up base BEFORE you lay final wax coating. You must observe base on this first pass. You will notice patterns near ski edges
which are the result of the ski edges heating up just under the base. This tells you you have correctly heated the base.

From now on I will focus on the practical aspects of ski tuning and ask you to read technical papers on several sites that discuss the "theory" behind some of the techniques you will learn.

The homework video analysis was to make you realize that you must at all times think of safety! It must come as a second nature to you.

Two major accidents can happen.
1. Heat related. Whenever using matches always have a METAL box or container for spent matches. Always have iron resting on ceramic tiles or metal tray.

2, Abrasions & cuts. Most of my accidents were related to this second item. You must hold down the ski on a sturdy bench. There are many ways to do this, from ski vices, to wooden raised beams, to home made platforms. Just make sure the ski is well set on a horizontal platform.

Never cut towards hands or body!

Never touch hot iron to see if hot. The very best way is to spit on iron with plate facing ceiling like your grandmother did. After 4-5 bounces the spit should disappear if iron is ON correct heat.If at any time smoke occurs lower temp!

Never allow iron to smoke wax. Each iron has its own personality. Get to know the correct setting and make mark on tempt. dial for waxing skis. If you bake bread, I am sure you have noticed that your oven is different form another oven and you must adapt your bread baking time if you use another oven. The same is true of irons. I have 5 irons and each has its unique qualities. Get to know your iron on that old ski you have. Soon we will practice many techniques!

Once you learn how to effectively use your iron, do not use any other iron.

I know what some people will tell you. "You must buy a ski iron, from ski wax companies" because base will burn or delaminate! Not true!
If you follow my directions you will never have base problems.

I will present the basic procedures to be followed. As you get better, you will discover "adaptations" which might be more efficient. Go ahead use them. I do not have all the answers and the final say on ski tuning.

I am sure someone will point out that he/she does this or that differently. There is no one way to undertake ski tuning.
What you are going to learn is the Pavel way. In a few years it will become the Dino or Darko way when you prepare the skis for the olympic skiers!

We are going to take each tool you have bought and discuss how you should use it. You must get to know the limits of each tool and discover the tools you like to use. We all have our favorites!

IRON
I assume you have now installed the extension cord.

The secret in correct use of the iron is to let wax flow ( not drip) on ski by placing iron vertically so that point is 1- 2" from base. You can control wax flow by pressing wax bar with small surface or large surface . In my case I use 1 kilogram bars and for first pass I use the end of bar, so little wax flows.
Once you have cleaned base ( I will tell you later how to do this) you want to "heat" base so that the pores will open very much like when a women gets a "facial"! A hot towel is placed on face.

In the case of our skis, this is done by spreading little wax and passing iron back and forth on base. Do not worry about missed areas. Do not worry about imperfect spread. All you want to do is heat up base! Once you see the ski edges patterns on the base, make one slow final pass before now allowing more wax flow!

Now you place the larger surface from the wax block on the iron. Do not stop or slow down now. In zig zag motion make a line from tip to tail and back.
Quickly let go of wax block , turn iron flat on base and pass iron over base BEFORE wax solidifies. The first time you do this it will be difficult to do so, but you must not allow wax to solidify so all this must be done in a flowing motion. DO NOT stop!

Do not press down hard on base. Allow iron to glide over wax and as you get better slowly moved iron back and forth. Never stop on one spot!
Just hold iron with two fingers and glide iron over wax.

Observe as you glide iron over wax and base that in FRONT of iron is a thin film of liquid wax. Allow wax to solidify on base.

You should have a uniform film from tip to tail. Observe base as wax solidifies. You will notice some "strange" effects. Note them and tell me what they are!

Here is why you should do your own waxing.
In shop they pass skis over heated roller with liquid wax on roller.You get very superficial wax on base surface.

By heating base on first pass you have opened the pores and wax has penetrated INTO the base.

While you are waiting for wax to solidify, clean iron surface with paper towel. DO NOT place iron flat on work bench since you will get "foreign matter" on surface.

Since on first time you will not know how much wax to lay, tape ski edges with masking tape so it will protect bindings.

FILES

You must learn to file with even gradual overlapping strokes. You must learn to place files on angle to get best "bite". Use that aluminum ceramic edge I asked you to buy and practice on this edge.

You will note that if you are not careful, you will "round off" this edge! That is the cardinal sin of beginner tuners! Be very careful not to allow file to fall below side! In other words keep file at 90 degrees from edge!

At very end of alu edges now round off 90 degrees. This is your "de-tune" area!

Only use files once burrs , dings have been taken out! ( see next tool)



DIAMOND STICK or CERAMIC STICK
While you are skiing, the ski edges will hit stones and the steel edges will "harden". You must take out these dings with diamond stick since your files will become very dull if you do not.
Softly pass stick over all damaged areas.

Note***
I keep my diamond stick on me at all times since during my coffee break I will check my edges and take out any dings!

Sandpaper
You must be at ease to use sandpaper on base. Typically beginner tuners do not want to take out shine on new base. YOU MUST!
You must have several grades of sandpaper.
80 - is very rough and rarely used. You will use it to get rust off those old skis you got. I use it at tips (on top) to get all cuts off tip!

180- good to get deep grooves off

200-favorite level for "structuring" base
***Remember rule- wet heavy snow,,,,deeper, wider grooves
cold new snow,,,,,,thinner narrower grooves

200+ grit For final structuring and cleaning up

Never but never use sandpaper with fingers. Use wood block to get uniform structure. The very best block is from auto body shops. It is a soft rubber block with two sections at each end which allows paper to tuck into slots!


We will do many exercises with sand paper
If you have bought your old ski, now is the time to take rust off ski edges ( without damaging plastic edges).
Have fun! Please do not curse me as you try to get rust off!!


TRUE BAR
This tool is a must!
What is a true bar????
Any metal straight edges about the width of the ski or board!
Any machinist will have some. All hardware stores have them.

A true bar is your tool to make sure your skis, base and edges are aligned. I will later show you how to use this valuable tool. In fact I have an exercise for you in which you will visit ski shops with your true bar and check NEW skis!

90% of shop staff will not know what you are doing!
I am sure you will find new skis that are concave or convex!!!!

More tools will be needed but for now let us practice with iron, file and sandpaper.

May I suggest you buy some all purpose wax in bars. You do not need ski wax for you to learn how to lay wax.

Enjoy yourself!

Remember, I want you to tell me what you see after you have laid wax on old ski base and it is solidifying! Watch carefully!