Bindings

Ok so i understand how skis can vary from make and model depending on width etc. What i dont understand is how bindings differ so much. Please can anyone explain what the main differences are with Bindings and what should i be looking for?

I am currently looking at buying either the scott Neo or Scott crusade all mountain skis.

Thanks

Bindings get made to do different jobs! We all have our own preferences, and you can do some research online, to find if what you are offered to fit a ski is good enough, or has a poor reputation.

My current preference is for these...

http://www.skis.com/wide-brake-ski-bindings/c1000000018/dynastar-px-12-lifter-wide-brake-ski-binding-2010-p176185.html

and these

http://www.evo.com/alpine-touring-ski-bindings/fritschi-diamir-freeride-plus-at-90mm-brakes-medium-2010.aspx#utm_source=googlebaseUK&utm_medium=shoppingengine&utm_campaign=googlebaseUK

I have friends who ski on these....

http://www.facewest.co.uk/Dynafit-TLT-Speed-Bindings.html

Your aim is to get a reliable safety binding, which will have a brake wide enough for the skis you want. Check the DIN range, aim to be around the middle.

Is there a glide plate?

Does the construction feel sturdy, some of the all plastic bindings seem a bit flimsy to me, and I've received trade advice to avoid certain models.

Does it look like it will be a pig to step into the binding in heavy snow? ...Thinking of every pair of Markers I've owned here :mrgreen:

Thanks Bandit for taking the time to reply, This has given me a few different options to look at...

I didnt realise how much a specialist pair of bindings cost tbh. Now i need to find a pair that will be ideally suited to the skis i want....hmm this could take some research... )

A couple of other points to add to Bandit's

Although not popular for that type of ski, a rail type binding allows for moving the binding easily for different conditions, or skier stance. Newer rail bindings have a wider base for wider skis.

If you have spent a lot of money on boot fitting, stance analysis, etc, look for a binding with the same delta angle (that is the difference in height between the toe, and heel pieces). The heel piece is higher (by varying amounts) to tip the boot forward in the binding. This difference varies between bindings significantly, and can throw out your stance without you knowing why.

As Bandit said, ideally you want to be toward the middle of the din range. So no point in spending an extra 50 pounds on a 12din binding, if you a 7 din skier, a 10din binding would be fine. Bindings are built more sturdy, as the max din increases. You are unlikely to damage, or distort the binding if you are toward the middle of the range.

Trencher, it's my view that with the added weight of the rails, seeking out a rail binding for the Neo or the Crusade would make them a pretty dismal ride.
I've owned skis with rail bindings, and by the end of a day skiing in bounds off piste, I could barely walk, by legs were so tired.

Without exception every guy, who picked up those skis to hand them to me after a break uttered expletives, some more than others :lol:

I prefer non-rail bindings, on my skis. Again it is the weight issue, my wife shouldn't have to carry all that extra weight! -)

True, some are heavy. Tyrolia rail bindings are not much heavier than most regular bindings though.

Trencher wrote:True, some are heavy. Tyrolia rail bindings are not much heavier than most regular bindings though.

Weight issues aside, I think that there are also issues with a rail, on the effect on the flex of the ski over a greater area than with a conventional binding.

I have owned a couple, and now sit firmly in the non rail camp!