Latest posts for the topic "Ski Tuning"

Ski Tuning

Mon, 16 Feb 2009 19:04:52 GMT

Any one do there own? Now I am threatening to top 6 pairs of skis I figured it will start to be cost effective...

Re:Ski Tuning

Mon, 16 Feb 2009 19:13:45 GMT

I do bits and bobs. Can't get to grips with P-Tex, it always falls out :roll:

Waxing I can do :lol:

Re:Ski Tuning

Mon, 16 Feb 2009 19:15:02 GMT

I heard the secret to P-Tex is heating the area you want the p-tex to bond with, ie-the base of the ski.

What sorta kit do you have/would you recommend for starting off?

Re:Ski Tuning

Mon, 16 Feb 2009 19:22:52 GMT

Pablo Escobar wrote:I heard the secret to P-Tex is heating the area you want the p-tex to bond with, ie-the base of the ski.

What sorta kit do you have/would you recommend for starting off?

I do my own Pablo, don't have any problem with P-tex ensure the ski is clean with a citrus based cleaner and ensure the candle is well lite and then it's down to your steady hands.

You will need a set of vises, an iron, brushes, an edger they is loads of good stuff on the internet, get on to the swix site for a good video presentation, I'm sure you have an old set of skis somewhere in your Columbian garage to practice on.

Re:Ski Tuning

Mon, 16 Feb 2009 19:23:51 GMT

I have heard that a fella called spyderjon is selling a P-Tex gun that is pretty good. I hear good things about it from CEM. If you want one you know where to find him.

Apart from that I use:

An old Iron

A small Vice

2 Ski supports

Brake straps

Plastic scraper

Metal scraper

Gurt Big B'tard file

Scrubbing brush for base texture (clean)

2 Edge tools to cover all angles

De Burring block

Diamond Files for fine repairs

Re:Ski Tuning

Mon, 16 Feb 2009 19:26:16 GMT

Is it pretty easy to get to grips with? I was wanting a comprehensive list for what I needed, where to get it and preferably if someone added it all to a basket for me and send me a linky :wink:

How much am I looking at for the essentials?

Edit: Posted after Bandits list..

I was looking at jonskituning but the basic package seems a bit over kill to me.. plus I haven't heard of the brand so straight away I was hesitant and a victim to the marketing of Toko :lol:

I am on snowHeads exodus anyhoo.

Re:Ski Tuning

Mon, 16 Feb 2009 23:29:19 GMT

as a complete beginner at this I looked on youtube and watched how it was done ...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ggXATfM81l0

and others

all you need is an old iron and a workbench (i did mine on the kitchen surface but its messy ) ...thoroughly clean the ski sole (I did mine with thinners on a cloth)and let dry then i dripped ptex on the gouges then let cool for 1/4 of an hour scraped off with a stainless metal edge then sanded with VERY fine glass paper till completely smooth then hot waxed scraped the excess off with apiece of perspex...thoroughly brushed with a stiff brush then edged with a little gizmo i bought from decathlon....took them to a mate who was a ski technician who said they were OK

its not rocket science :lol: and the cost was the ptex GBP4.95 and a new scrubbing brush GBP1 and wax GBP6 the edger was about GBP5 from decatlon

try these people ...gave me good service

https://www.slalomracing.com/

Re:Ski Tuning

Tue, 17 Feb 2009 00:34:11 GMT

Couple of thoughts.

Bandit raised the point about P tex falling out. I once watched a guy do a repair, and have used the same method since. Go round the edges of the gouge and undercut. I have used a wood chisel for this. Then warm the ski, and the candle should get into the undercut. Ensure that the undercut at the raer of the gouge, (towards the back of the ski), is sound. This takes the most ground pressure.

Waxing. This happened at the same time as my Austrian carpet boot inner soles. I cut a piece of metal tube, about 20mm OD, and about 3mm wall thickness. This was cut to ski width, at the widest. Get a nut and bolt, about half an inch longer, pass through the tube, so as to be a good rolling fit. Make a metal fork that captures the tube, when the bolt is passed through the fork and the tube. The narrow end of the fork is forged into a handle. I used a file handle. So effectively, you now have a roller.

Put the roller tube onto the hotplate on your kitchen hob. Then roll the wax onto the ski, in one quick pass. No need to scrape, it's a perfect finish.

Then scrape the worst of the wax up off the kitchen floor, and go to the pub. When you get back, half slam the door shut, and roar ~ "Wow, I feel sexy!" There will be an instant sound of snoring from the bedroom.

So there you have it, skis all waxed, a good night out at the pub, and you are in no trouble.

It's a result, innit!

Re:Ski Tuning

Tue, 17 Feb 2009 12:53:27 GMT

It is fairly easy once you have edged and waxed a few times.

You dont really need a fancy/expensive bench/vice stand for edging, just lean the skis against the wall and do them there.

For waxing, you certainly dont need a GBP40 wax iron, just use an old iron or buy a cheap one from argos. As long as you dont put any water in it and set it on the lowest heat setting, it will do the job fine.

Its mostly down to learning the best ways yourself. I'm sure my methods will differ from everyone elses and there's again will be different, just practice and try to find cheaper alternatives to the expensive branded stuff.

Tom

Re:Ski Tuning

Tue, 17 Feb 2009 12:54:25 GMT

Cool, I might just buy some bits and pieces and give it a go Doug Coombs style.

Re:Ski Tuning

Tue, 17 Feb 2009 13:02:19 GMT

bandit wrote:I have heard that a fella called spyderjon is selling a P-Tex gun that is pretty good. I hear good things about it from CEM. If you want one you know where to find him.

Jon's Ski Tuning http://www.skituning.co.uk

I get all my stuff from him. I'm planning on getting myself a sidewall planer at somepoint over the summer 'cause at the moment, each time I sharpen the edges I ended up clogging the files with the plastic from the sidewall.

Re:Ski Tuning

Tue, 17 Feb 2009 13:09:39 GMT

ellistine wrote:
I get all my stuff from him. I'm planning on getting myself a sidewall planer at somepoint over the summer 'cause at the moment, each time I sharpen the edges I ended up clogging the files with the plastic from the sidewall.

Student answer: small sharp kitchen knife, a steady hand and a good eye!

Re:Ski Tuning

Tue, 17 Feb 2009 13:51:58 GMT

I'm with smirnoff...maybe we're tight in yorkshire...

One of these works for me

http://www.decathlon.co.uk/EN/quick-sharp-pocket-edge-tuner-24172883/

Re:Ski Tuning

Tue, 17 Feb 2009 16:33:57 GMT

Maybe I go overboard on perfection, but here's my feeble recommendation.

Get a good vice. If your ski isn't mounted solidly, it will be a pain to scrape and brush the base. Just spend the money, and make your life easy.

An edge angle guide is a good idea if you are concerned about edge hold. I use this one: http://www.fktools-us.com/ProductDetail.asp?PartNumbNew=3000

I use a diamond file guided by hand to remove any major burrs/dings, then use the carbide cutter to make sure my edge angle is correct, and finish with a ceramic stone. Sometimes I detune the tips and tail with a gummy stone, but it's not a huge deal. Here is the original kit I got: http://www.fktools-us.com/ProductDetail.asp?PartNumbNew=DSK3000#

Also, you will need to get at least one diamond file, I don't even use a regular file.

I've never had a problem with P-tex falling out - make sure you don't try to drip it on, bring the burning stick down to the ski surface.

Waxing really isn't hard - I use a universal most of the time since weather is so unpredictable here. My current wax won't run off the iron, so I dab the stick onto the iron, then rub on the ski. When the ski is covered I run the iron over it until the wax is evenly melted into the surface. Let it dry, scrape it off, brush it with a nylon brush, then finish it with a horsehair brush.

Here is a link for a good look at what a pro race tune would be: http://www.racewax.com/category/tuning_tips.wax_application

Re:Ski Tuning

Tue, 17 Feb 2009 16:45:47 GMT

smirnoff_skier wrote:

ellistine wrote:
I get all my stuff from him. I'm planning on getting myself a sidewall planer at somepoint over the summer 'cause at the moment, each time I sharpen the edges I ended up clogging the files with the plastic from the sidewall.

Student answer: small sharp kitchen knife, a steady hand and a good eye!

I remember Pavel said to try that too. I have visions of gaping holes in my sidewalls though!

Re:Ski Tuning

Tue, 17 Feb 2009 21:19:51 GMT

Dshenberger wrote:
Waxing really isn't hard - I use a universal most of the time since weather is so unpredictable here. My current wax won't run off the iron, so I dab the stick onto the iron, then rub on the ski. When the ski is covered I run the iron over it until the wax is evenly melted into the surface. Let it dry, scrape it off, brush it with a nylon brush, then finish it with a horsehair brush.

Dripping wax on skis is a good way to waste wax (I have some Scottish ancestry). I do use the drip method for a pre-season deep wax, but get a little more frugal for the rest of the season. Use the block of wax like a crayon to coat the base. This light covering can be melted in with an iron or rubbed in with a plastic scourer. This is an especially good way if you are using expensive high fluoro waxes and makes a lot less mess.

Trencher

Re:Ski Tuning

Tue, 17 Feb 2009 21:23:19 GMT

Thanks for all your help guys.

Any recommendations where to get all this from?

I will give Jon an email any case.

Re:Ski Tuning

Tue, 17 Feb 2009 21:30:35 GMT

A good way to work without a bench and ski vices is to work on an offcut of carpet about 1 x 2 metres. It stops the skis sliding around, captures metal filings and wax scrapings, and can be rolled up and stored easily.

Ski brakes can be held up with a short piece of electrical wire (solid and 2.5 mm2). Twist a loop in one end, hook the brake up on one side, over the top of the binding and wrap the wire around the brake on the other side. Very secure and fast.

For new skis and for the pre-season deep wax, put the skis in the airing cupboard overnight with a heavy coat of wax on. Works like a hot box.

Trencher

Re:Ski Tuning

Tue, 17 Feb 2009 22:04:02 GMT

Pablo Escobar wrote:Thanks for all your help guys.

Any recommendations where to get all this from?

I will give Jon an email any case.

Try your mate Ross, and tell us what you have done with him.....

Re:Ski Tuning

Tue, 17 Feb 2009 23:10:24 GMT

Sometimes you can get good bundles of wax off eBay.
For blue, green and red diamond files, go on building trade websites.
If you buy a ski specific one its about GBP23, if you buy a building trade one (exactly the same) they are about GBP12 each.

Re:Ski Tuning

Tue, 17 Feb 2009 23:15:42 GMT

Trencher wrote:A good way to work without a bench and ski vices is to work on an offcut of carpet about 1 x 2 metres. It stops the skis sliding around, captures metal filings and wax scrapings, and can be rolled up and stored easily.

Ski brakes can be held up with a short piece of electrical wire (solid and 2.5 mm2). Twist a loop in one end, hook the brake up on one side, over the top of the binding and wrap the wire around the brake on the other side. Very secure and fast.

For new skis and for the pre-season deep wax, put the skis in the airing cupboard overnight with a heavy coat of wax on. Works like a hot box.

Trencher

Good practical points. Of course, if you have a bit too much carpet........!!

Re:Ski Tuning

Wed, 18 Feb 2009 08:35:54 GMT

smirnoff_skier wrote:Sometimes you can get good bundles of wax off eBay.
For blue, green and red diamond files, go on building trade websites.
If you buy a ski specific one its about GBP23, if you buy a building trade one (exactly the same) they are about GBP12 each.

did a search found this......,,,any good?
http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Diamond-Tools

Re:Ski Tuning

Wed, 18 Feb 2009 08:44:34 GMT

daved wrote:did a search found this......,,,any good?
http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Diamond-Tools

Wow, now they are some bargins!
The 'Diamond Stone 1"x3"x1/4" #320 - Vee Groove' would work well as a rough one and then you would need another with a higher grit count (600 usually).

The ones that are 1 inch wide would fit well in branded edge guides (Toko, Swix etc) but if you are just using a normal clamp then i would think any width would do.

At that price you could afford to have a bit of trial and error to find which ones are easiest and best to use. Good find.

Re:Ski Tuning

Wed, 18 Feb 2009 09:02:25 GMT

if I order some do you need any? save on carriage!

Re:Ski Tuning

Wed, 18 Feb 2009 17:03:10 GMT

Try racewax.com they sell most anything for ski tuning. I use their wax, and it works fine for me. Price is pretty good too.

I have talked to the owner, and I know he ships overseas a good bit, so shipping will probably be quite fair.

Re:Ski Tuning

Wed, 18 Feb 2009 23:18:07 GMT

daved wrote:if I order some do you need any? save on carriage!

I have 3 at the minute and I think any more would be a little excessive.
Thanks for the offer though. If you come accross a spare/cheap ski vice or workbench then I would definately take you up on the offer.