X-country lessons

I am thinking of giving cross-country a go. Where might there be good enough snow early April for me to be able to get some tuition? I guess height would be the main issue, but would there be trails open at some of the higher French resorts at that time? Anywhere?

Yesterday I was at Galtür, a small village with a small, well-run piste resort combined with fairly heavy emphasis on both uphill ski touring (for which it really is getting too late, unless you stick to touring in the piste area, as the powder is no longer soft) and an emphasis on Langlauf (which is what I understand by "cross-country"). The base station there is high, so it might work, though I can tell you spring is really in the air and snow is melting in Austria just now. You could chat to the ski school there and get their opinion about whether Langlauf in April is realistic.

Thank you Innsbrucker. It is just the sort of information I was looking for. We were thinking of going back to Seefeld, but were concerned about the snow there. We hadn't considered however, that the condition of the snow on higher ground might not be conducive to langlauf anyway. We'll leave it. We might try langlauf next year, and have two holidays in the snow for a change, so that we can keep up the alpine skiing as well.

Both high and low, now, the powder is getting 'breakable' hard from melting and refreezing, which makes powder skiing difficult and dangerous. However, from what I understand of Langlauf (not much, though I do own a set of gear) you are going to be on prepared tracks, either in the grooves (for classic style) or on the hard packed snow (for the more energetic skating style), so as long as there is snow which is not slushy, I would think the lack of soft powder not relevant.

Seefeld is really my favourite resort, but being lower I was thinking a higher resort would be a better bet. as there may be no snow at all on the Loipe at Seefeld.

By the way, I highly recommend going up to Rosshütte, or half way, to Hochegg, at Seefeld, on touring skis through the woods. And if the snow is soft, earlier in the year (and you do not have insurance worries about a little gentle off-piste skiing) head into the woods 100m beyond Hochegg on the left, and do little skiing back down through the woods). You can also ski down through woods was at Gschwandkopf, Seefeld. You can rent touring skis. At first sight ski touring may look a stupid idea, but once you try it, it is just a fantastic feeling. I have not yet done a full-blown tour in the wild, as I am not sure if my modest powder-skiing skills are good enough, but have done quite a lot of walking up woodland around pistes, which is a gentle introduction to touring (but a great work-out!). Take a rucksack, with a change of T-shirt (touring makes you hot) a flask of tea, and a snack. Have a beer or soup at the top, and the ski down is such a pleasure because you feel you have earned it!

It was Seefeld where I was caught, one day when the staff had little to do, mis-using the car park for touring. There is a free touring car park slightly further out.

How advanced a skier do you need to be to tour then? I've seen the people climbing the Rosshutte whilst I've been on the lifts, and always assumed that they were really advanced, and that I would be unlikely to reach that standard. Do they ski down the pistes after reaching the top, or do they go down the powder? I've noticed that their skis do not seem particularly broad.

Seefeld is also our favourite resort.

As for how good you have to be for a real tour in the wild, best ask the guide who is leading it. You need to buy various equipment, and probably be able to handle any piste, and have progressed to a at least dipping a toe in the water with powder skiing.

For touring near a piste, you have to be good enough to get back down on touring skis. If you choose to ski down the piste, there are no special skills, beyond a certain knack about the way you climb (sliding more than stepping).

Touring skis can be any skis with touring bindings (which do work OK for everyday skiing, but are a tad expensive), and slots to take the hooks at each of the skins; and you need a set of skins which you strip off before going downhill. Having said that, it is nice touring with very light purpose-made skis. My touring skis are super light but a bit of handful downhill, but good modern ones are fine.

If you are touring in the wild, some people will opt for wide skis for powder. There again, some mountain guides say 'wide skis are all very well when it is soft but you really want long straight skis to handle ice, in case you encounter it". All that only applies to off-piste touring.

A lot of those tourers will, like me, ski back down the piste, either during the afternoon, (or by full moon for an evening tour). As long as you are near a piste, there is no necessary connection between having gone up through the woods, and choosing to go down on- or off-piste.

Also it is nicer touring with light boots. And the boots need a bit of give, though they usually have a switch to firm them up for the descent. Again some of the touring boots make the downhill a bit tricker than normal boots, but not too much, so if you are good enough get down the red at Rosshütte on normal skis, getting down the blue with touring gear should not be a problem. The main thing is they are comfortable, a blister will cut your tour short!

Ideally you also have bigger plates on the bottom of the poles, and adjustable poles. But I go up on normal poles. I would be happy to go up Roshütte with you if I happen to be around. Another resort in the area much used for this type of piste-side tour is Muttereralm. One hour up to Hochegg and two hours to Roshütte is about right for me, though many tourers seem super-fit and will do it a lot quicker.

If you are not comfortable with the skis or boots after the ascent, there is no shame in buying a lift ticket at the top and going down in the lift, provided there is one to hand.

Gee! Thanks for all that Innsbrucker, and that's a kind offer of yours. I'll bear it in mind. With health and luck, we'll be out in Seefeld again next season.