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Vigo di Fassa, Dolomites - Trip Report

Vigo di Fassa, Dolomites - Trip Report

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Started by Wanderer in Italy - 14 Replies

J2Ski

Wanderer posted Feb-2015

Just back from a mid-term trip to Vigo di Fassa in the Dolomites. A great trip to a great area. There were 12 of us in total in two extended families.

We flew into Venice on Saturday, 14th arriving at about 6pm. After collecting bags and our hire car (with winter tyres secured with considerable difficulty), we headed to the resort. After a short break along the road for food, we headed up towards the San Pelegrino pass in poor weather. As we climbed, the rain turned to snow and the journey became increasingly interesting :shock: . Anyway, taking it very easy, we eventually made it to our hotel in Vigo without incident.

Sunday morning involved the usual faffing, getting sorted out with lift passes, ski hire, etc. It was about 11am before we got up the local mountain above Vigo. It is a very small area with only a limited number of runs but a few nice ones and conditions were very good. Runs included the Black named after Alberto Tomba who practiced here regularly in his heyday, and the long Thoni run back down to resort. Not much variety but a very pleasant and gentle way to find our ski legs.

On Monday, we headed down to Campitello to access the main Sella Ronda area. Unfortunately, we were a little slow getting out the door and ran into a long line for the cable car up the hill :evil:. Once we got up, the skiing was great in glorious sunshine - lunch was eaten outdoors in shirt sleeves :wink:. We headed clockwise over towards San Christina and Monte Pana. While there were a good few people on the main Sella routes, once you got off the main connections, the slopes tended to be very quite. A highlight of the day was the Sasslong World Cup run down into San Christina in Val Gardena a beautiful long Black in super condition. Unfortunately, we also ran into a bit of a queue to download into Campitello again at the end of the day:twisted:. The day was also marred by an injury to one of our party - an 18 yo girl who was a complete beginner learning to snowboard in ski school. It turned out that she had broken her wrist.



On Tuesday, we drove up to Pian de Frataces a carpark up the hill with direct access to 2 gondolas. This bypassed the long queues in the valley :lol: . We spent most of the morning skiing around the Belvedere area on hard packed but beautiful slopes - perfect for some highspeed cruising. Later on, once the queue for the link lift over the Passo Pordoi had died down, we headed over to Arabba and enjoyed the more challenging skiing in that valley before heading home. As usual, the top section at Porta Vescovo was not terribly pleasant, with too many people out of their depth on this run. Once past that short section, it was fine. Another great day :lol: .

Wednesday we again drove up the mountain and bypassed the queues. Skied over to San Cristina and went up the other side in the Funicular to Seceda and skied down the fabulous red La Longia piste -over 10km long. Did the Sasslong a couple of times again. Another super day 8) .

On Thursday, we headed over to San Pelegrino in the morning. Its a lovely area and was virtually deserted :wink: . There are a good selection of runs in this area including the super runs down to the cable car which are graded as red but are pretty steep. We had a lovely morning here before heading back to the Buffaure area in the afternoon. We didn't have too much time here and just did a couple of runs on the top before coming down the lovely long Red Panorama piste down to the valley.

On Friday, we effectively reversed the previous day's itinery covering the Buffaure area in the morning and heading over to San Pelegrino in the pm. Before heading over, we skied down the long Black into Alba. A wonderful run in great condition and virtually deserted. Unfortunately, there was a bit of a queue for the cablecar back up and we lost about 25 minutes :evil:. Back in Pelegrino, we were enjoying the great skiing on quiet slopes and then a wonderful lunch in Baita Dies Bis (I think). However, again disaster struck. One of the young lads with us had gone off to do a bit of boarding and took a bad tumble. Another blood wagon off the mountain and to make matters worse they took him down the "wrong side" to Agordo, a long way from our hotel (close to an hour's drive over the mountains). He broke his collar bone and may need surgery :cry:.

On Saturday, we headed back to Frataces. It was much quieter so we planned on completing the full Sella Ronda. We made great progress over as far as Selva Gardena when disaster struck again :x . Another one of our party took a tumble and fell heavily on her shoulder. It was immediately clear that she would not be able to ski on so I retraced our steps as quickley as possible to get the car and then drove across the mountain road over the Sella pass and brought her back to the medical centre nearest us. Did manage to get out for a few runs later in the afternoon but by now the weather was closing in and we just repeated the two valley runs back to Frataces from Belvedere and Rotello sides a couple of times. While the visibility restricted us quite a bit, the slopes were still in fantastic condition and the runs were very enjoyable.

Food was excellent pretty much everywhere we went and generally very reasonable - often no more than €10 per head to cover a main course, water and coffees. The Baita Dies Bis in Pelegrino/Falcade was probably a stand out for lunch. My OH and myself treated ourselves to a posh meal one night in the L Chimpl restaurant near Vigo. It has a Michilin Star and was outstanding. Not cheap but very good value for the quality of food.

Apres ski was not terribly exciting (as usual in Italy) but that was fine. The Alpen Sports Bar in Vigo was very pleasant for a post-skiing pint and they served lovely snacks with the beer. Visited the Pavone disco bar underneath our hotel a few times. It was generally very quiet but run by two lovely ladies who extending a pleasant welcome.

Overall, I am more than ever convinced that the Dolomites is probably the best area anywhere for strong intermediates. The area offers a wonderful sense of touring around the mountains that you rarely experience elsewhere. Pisting is second to none (the Italian's don't like moguls) and infrastructure is modern and efficient. Morning access from Campitello and Canazei was definitely a problem during half term but with a car it was easy to bypass these bottlenecks. A new lift up from Alba planned for next season might help. Food and drink is generally excellent and inexpensive. I can highly recommend the area but having a car is a definite bonus and allows you to bypass the queues and also to explore some of the outlying satellite areas :wink: .

With 3 broken bones, this was the worst trip in my 20 years of skiing for injuries. There was no particular reason for this level of injuries as conditions were good. I think it was just one of those things and perhaps a reminder that skiing is a risky activity :roll: . Having said that, I don't think the other family who suffered all the significant injuries will travel on Friday, the 13th ever again :shock: .

I'll try to figure out photos again and put some up :oops:

Tony_H
reply to 'Vigo di Fassa, Dolomites - Trip Report'
posted Feb-2015

Thanks for the report, sorry about the injuries. I am put off by your report of lift queues!!!
www  New and improved me

Wanderer
reply to 'Vigo di Fassa, Dolomites - Trip Report'
posted Feb-2015

Tony

There was definitely an issue with the queues in Campitello and Canazei early in the morning. However, you have to bear in mind that it was half-term week. It reminds me a bit of various descriptions I have read in relation to Mayrhofen - its seems to be a particular problem with busy cablecars. If you are prepared to drive a few minutes, you can easily bypass the queues an get straight onto the snow. The satellite areas were completed devoid of queues as well, so not a big problem and I certainly would not let it put you off, especially as you tend to travel at quieter times.

AllyG
reply to 'Vigo di Fassa, Dolomites - Trip Report'
posted Feb-2015

What a great report! Thanks Wanderer :)

It sounds like you would have had a wonderful holiday if it hadn't been for the injuries in your group. I hope the three of them make a full and rapid recovery, ready for their next holiday on the snow.

I suppose lift queues at February half-term happen in a lot of resorts, and it was lucky you had the car so you could avoid most of them.

Which hotel were you in and what did you think of it?

Flat country skier
reply to 'Vigo di Fassa, Dolomites - Trip Report'
posted Feb-2015

Great report, thank you. Very jealous.

Couldn't agree more that the Dolomites is a beautiful/great place for skiing. The queues on Sella Ronda are unfortunately normal during Carnival week as Northern Italian ,German, Austrian schools are all off and this coincided with main UK half-term this year (often does though :( The other normally very busy time around there is after Xmas day until 7 Jan.

We've managed couple of times to go outside the busy times and it's been wonderful. Also as mentioned above, as soon you get off the Sella Ronda, there is lots of lovely quiet skiing around.

Hopefully the injuries will heal soon and this has not put the people in your group off the skiing/snowboarding.

Wanderer
reply to 'Vigo di Fassa, Dolomites - Trip Report'
posted Feb-2015

AllyG wrote:What a great report! Thanks Wanderer :)

It sounds like you would have had a wonderful holiday if it hadn't been for the injuries in your group. I hope the three of them make a full and rapid recovery, ready for their next holiday on the snow.

I suppose lift queues at February half-term happen in a lot of resorts, and it was lucky you had the car so you could avoid most of them.

Which hotel were you in and what did you think of it?
Thanks Ally. I don't think they will be put off by injuries but possibly the snowboard will be abandoned in favour of skis in at least one case :mrgreen:. Two of the injuries were to snowboarders :!:.

We stayed in the Hotel Andes close to the gondola in Vigo. It was lovely with really helpful staff. The first injury was to a young 18 y.o. girl in our group. She was in the local ski school when it happened, while the rest of us were over in the main Sella area. The manager of the hotel actually collected her from the medical centre and paid her medical bill of €55 (which, of course, she subsequently reimbursed him for) - not something you would get in many places :wink:. Some rooms have been renovated but not all of them - I understand they plan to renovate the rest over the next year or two. We stayed in one of the older rooms and while it was a little jaded, it was perfectly adequate for our needs. We had a family room which consisted of a double room and another area with two single beds separated by the bathroom. A lot more space that you would typically get in a French hotel. Prices were pretty reasonable and a lot cheaper than places directly on the slopes. Dinner was fairly typical Italian half board fare with a nice salad buffet, a lovely pasta/soup course and a second meat or fish course (though often not what we would typically consider a "main" course) and dessert. Not exactly haute cuisine but still nice and filling. Good selection of wines at reasonable prices. Breakfast was ok with the usual fare but not terribly exciting. Nice small pool and wellness area as well.

While we did have to drive to the slopes, it also meant that we travelled to less obvious areas that might otherwise have been ignored. These were much quieter and well worth doing. They would be unlikely to keep long distance cruisers happy for more than a day or half-day but offered a nice change from the main ski area.

Edited 2 times. Last update at 05-Mar-2015

Admin
reply to 'Vigo di Fassa, Dolomites - Trip Report'
posted Feb-2015

Interesting write-up; thanks for that.

Queues to be expected at bottlenecks in half-term but, as you described, a bit of planning can usually avoid them... I feel another thread coming on...
The Admin Man

Wanderer
reply to 'Vigo di Fassa, Dolomites - Trip Report'
posted Feb-2015


Looking back at the Sassalungo mountain from the Monte Pana side (above San Cristina).


Another view of the Sassolungo from the Col Raiser up the other side from San Christina


The bottom of the Sasslong World Cup piste.

Topic last updated on 05-March-2015 at 10:07