HOW TO SET BINDINGS

Dshenberger, ski bindings like the LT11 are on a rail AFAIR, and set up should be straightforward. In the case of a build up of pressure a binding is designed to release when it happens suddenly, to protect the user. That is, for your situation, a sudden increase at the toe together with a sudden decrease at the heel. In the case of a high pressure carved turn, the pressure build up would be gradual, so it would not trigger the release. AFAIK the LT11 is designed to release at the toe and the heel together in the event of a toepiece "event". No way, should you be able to occasionally "walk out" of your bindings, this could also put you at risk of injury.
As you now have new skis and bindings, perhaps it's a good opportunity to undertake a little online digging and see if you can find a Salomon binding manual for your new Z12Ti's and double check your fitter's work. Just for peace of mind of course

Yep, the rail set-up is super easy. One pin, and you can change the length. Forward pressure is really straightforward. I have had a couple of walkout issues at low speed if I get into sticky stuff. I'll have to put my Volkls in the vice, and see if I can get the boot to dislodge with a solid whack in the back.

hey, I'll get my coat, seems kind of pointless offering advice when people just ignor it

see ya

A cautionary tale re. bindings.

On my second ski trip, a number of years ago, I signed up for ski school as usual. Initially, the instructor seemed nice and appeared to be pretty good (it was in Italy and he was a bit older - not some young hotshot). However, as the week went on, his whole approach had a single focus - faster, faster, faster . After about 3 days, my poor technique, which he had given very little specific direction on, was no longer good enough to cope with the speed he was pushing the class to and he dropped me to a lower class (where the pace was more moderate and the instruction much better.)

However, for those who survived the pressure for more speed continued until the last day - race day. It turned out that all the classes at each level completed a timed race course and it emerged that the instructor had a bet on with the other instructors over whose pupils would win the race. His sole ambition for the week was to win the bet .

As part of his "preparations" for the race, he "happened" to mention to the class that their bindings might be set too low for the race and a number of them went back to the hire shop and had the settings set higher.

On race day, one of the guys completed the race course but went into a load of soft snow at the end of the course at high speed - his skis stopped but he didn't and the bindings did not give - result: very serious compound fracture of his leg .

The instructor should probably have been "struck off" if such a facility exists but I am not sure that his behaviour was even reported and he could still be at the same crap today for all I know .

hey someones throwing their dummy out the pram!!!!!!

tomski, it's the internet, believe what you want

just jesting cem ,building site banter, cant help myself some times ,any way can some one tell me if there is a advantage to using carbon poles to aluminium ones it cant be just the weight, i have tried both and prefere ali to carbon ,and its cheaper ,

For those of you Salomon users out there, found the link to download their shop manual, which has the DIN settings chart in it:
http://www.salomoncertification.com/download.jsp

I wanted to get some advice from the more experienced skiers here. I've just bought some new skis (Salomon Aeromax TI + 711 bindings) and had them set them up for me in the shop. The guy did it fairly quickly though and the setting differs slightly (it's a bit higher) from the one I got from the Salomon chart and from various online tools.

I am only concerned because, whilst being fairly young and fit, I don't have the strongest knees. Do any of you set your bindings to different values for front and back? I am thinking that, to prevent knee injuries from twisting, it could be a good idea to lower the front release slightly? By, say, 1/2 point to start with.

Obviously, I am fully aware of the dangers of adjusting my own bindings but would be interested to hear opinions.